Oil system

So after the fail that was yesterday, I slept in, went for a run then headed out for brunch with Emma at Trove. The rest of the day was spent doing house stuff before heading along to the work shop for a bit of relaxation.

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The first thing I tackled was the exhaust gasket, for the factory install the top of the gasket has a flange that meats the heat shield. This needs trimming off because the water rail from Retro ford water rail wont fit with it in place unless you do. I wish that manufacturers told you this sort of stuff in the documentation, its not hard to fix but if I had known it needed doing it could have been fitted in on a number other days. A cut of disk in the Dremal and then a couple of minuets with the file remove all the shape edges and the job was done.

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I forgot to take any photos making up the an hoses, however there are lots of guides on youtube and as long as you take it slowly and tape the hose before cutting then its all fairly simple. The hose above was not used as it kinked when installed so a longer hose that loops round the dry sump tank was needed.

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The dry sump tank is plumbed with an-12, and the oil filter relocation in an-10. The original plan had been to fit a filter on the race line oil filter plate, however as you can see from the picture on the right there is insufficient space. I tried using the Jenvy Oil filter housing however it clashed with the engine mount. At some point I would like to replace the current arrangement with a plate that goes straight to the oil lines, removing the spin on adapter.

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There are two things that need doing to finish the oil system off:

  1. Order and fit the oil temperature sensor in the dry sump tank, this will also enable me to finish of the wiring.
  2. Order and fit a breather tank and link it to the dry sump tank with 12mm hose, the bad sketch above on a bit of MDF shows the size and shape I need. rsm-alufab made a great job on the dry sump tank so I will see what they can do.



Easy Jobs


I nipped down to the work shop to get a couple of jobs done, However when I got there I realised I was knackered so stuck to some easy jobs so I did not screw anything up. First of I reduced the height of the oil filler cap by by removing the clicking part and then trimmed the mechanism of the top with a Dremel it was finished off with a bit of sand paper.

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Then I spend some time polishing up the side pod mould, however this is not something that photographs well as it started off reasonably shinny and gets better. The plan is to borrow a machine polisher so I will leave the mould for the time being and come back to it once I have the power tool.

The final task for the day was to start planning out the oil lines for the dry sump tank and oil filter. I’m hoping to get this job finished tomorrow.

Exhaust progress

I nipped back down to see Rob at Cyan cars on Saturday morning, so that he could adjust the manifold a bit so that everything fitted in the side pod.

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The picture on the left shows the manifold before modification, the right shows the manifold after it had been cut rewedded and the out let moved a good 40mm closer to the side of the car, everything now fits in the side pod without a problem.

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A view down the side of the car shows how much space there is in the side pod. A bit more fettling and the exhaust will run parallel to the side of the car and I can get the back box mounted up. I have ordered some exhaust clamps, mounting rubbers and other bits and bobs, to finish the job.

While in the work shop I also did a bit of flatting back, of the body work, swept up and gave the place a bit of a tidy. Looking around the place I’m due a good clean up and sort out of the cupboards because I have just been dumping bits in there. I could do with finding a good cheap way of keeping all the bolts and nuts organised, so that I don’t end up ordering duplicates.



I had the whole evening in the work shop, and I got loads done.

I started out by mounting the dry sump tank, the brackets where bolted up to the passenger foot well bulkhead and the floor was drilled so that the oil can be drained from the system by dropping the sump plug. I have worked on a number of cars where you have to remove the tank to change the oil. a job that all ways seamed to end up with oil being spilt all over the place.

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I added some heat shrink to the jubilee clips and shrank it in place. This is to prevent the clips abrading the tank over time and eventually making a whole or creating another failure.

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The tank was slotted in to place, the straps tightened and job’s a carrot. Now I can measure up for the oil lines. There is more clearance between the oil tank and the throttle bodies than it looks in this photo so the air box should fit with out a problem.

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Then it was on to the splitter. When I received the kit from Rob the splitter was fitted sandwiched between the Aluminium floor and the chassis. However as I bonded and riveted the floor on the car some time ago I had to trim the center section of the splitter to fit it back on the car.

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Once the splitter was in place I was able to start marking out how the floor will be trimmed to give clearance for the wheels at full lock.

One step forward and two back

Yesterday I picked up the exhaust Manifold from Rob at Cyana sports cars. So after a lazy start this morning morning, doing the shopping, Happy hour (the weekly, or not so weekly house clean) going for a run and all the other stuff that needs doing I escaped to the work shop to get some stuff done.

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As it stands the exhaust manifold is made up and most of the components to finish the exhaust off are hear, however its not all welded together. So I can make sure that it all fits under the body work, with out the needing to cut holes in the panels.

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The manifold got bolted up temporarily, along with the side pod so I could see how it all fits and looks. I really like the combination colours black, orange and blue all work well together. Unfortunately to get the manifold on I had to remove the alternator. I knew it was going to be close, but had hoped every thing would fit unfortunately it was not to be. So I will have to go to an inlet side set up and mount it all low in the car to avoid the chassis. Thinking positively having the alternator lower will be good for the centre of gravity 😉 .

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More positive news comes from the fact that, with a bit more of a bend in the manifold so that the last section follows the paneling on the drivers side both the CAT and silencer will fit in the side pod with out a problem. I will probably put some heat shielding on the body work and maybe add a NACA duct to the floor to ensure that nothing gets to hot like the S1 Elise has this on the centre section of the under tray. The Retro ford water rail also fits with the manifold in place.

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I also picked up the wide band O2 sensor from the post office this morning (yep they are open on a sunday), the kit comes from trigger wheels and was delivered very promptly, it was simple to get every thing connected up to the ECU and ready to go, I just need to pick up some sticky Velcro to mount the Wide band box on top of the ECU. If I stop procrastinating and get down to the work shop once I get back from France on Wednesday, I should be able to get the engine loom finished. Another good day on the mid loom will see the wiring harness complete.

When I left the work shop I felt like I had got nothing done, however looking back as I write the blog things looks very deferent and much more positive. Loads seams to be coming together and I even feel confident enough to say that with a bit of luck and a tail wing i might get the engine started by the end of the month. Very rash but lets see what happens.

Engine loom

I started working on the engine loom this morning. I started with a flying lead loom from emerald, which comes with a full set of fully terminated cores that you cut down to length to make up the loom. As I don’t have a crimping tool for the pins on the emerald connector this seamed to be a good way to get going on the loom and the instructions that come with the kit are very good.

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Armed with the above circuit diagram I started building up the loom. The plan is to run sequential coil on plug and sequential injection so there will be a couple of differences but nothing two serious.

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I think that I now have every thing apart from the cam sensor (I need some shielded cable) connected at the ECU end of the loom. The next job is to make up the connector to link the ECU in to the main loom.

Fule tank volume

I have just been measuring up the chassis so that I can have a fuel tank made up for the car. I’m assuming a worse case fuel use of 27.o mpg (based on a Caterham R500), but expect to get better than this. So convert mpg to mpl because I work better in metric

27.0 mpg / 4.54609 (gallons to liters) = 5.9392 mpl

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Using the tank profile shown above that will fit nicely above my diff with in the chassis and a tank that is 60.0cm long then I have a total fuel tank volume of 28.8L or a range of around 171 miles. For every cm the tank depth is extended I gain an extra 1.2 L of fuel which gives me 7.1 miles of additional range.

So I’m considering making the tank 4 cm deeper to add an additional 4.8 L of volume to the tank. with the aim of extending the range to approximately 200 miles.

Does any body have approximate mpg for a light car running a 2l Duratec, failing that how big is your fuel tank and would you like a larger one?